Shinjuku is the heart of Tokyo. The city is divided into four exit areas – east, west, north, and south, with the Shinjuku Station in the centre. Each area has a different characteristic. East Exit for nightlife, West Exit for business, North Exit for posh ambience, and South Exit for the youth and convenient travel. Today, our focus is on the East Exit area where the ever-happening Shinjuku Golden Gai is located in Kabukicho, a.k.a “sleepless city” – the red light district of Tokyo. If you want to experience Japan’s best nightlife, Shinjuku Golden Gai has to be on your bucket list. Even if you are not a night owl (YES).
Once one of Tokyo’s hidden gems, Golden Gai is the best spot to do bar hopping. The narrow alley at night is highly contrasting to what you experience in Shinjuku during the daytime.
So, what is Shinjuku’s Golden Gai known for?
Neon lights, karaoke, clubs, bars, eateries, and whatnot – Shinjuku Golden Gai is known to have the best nightlife in Japan. At this place, you’ll come across a diverse range of people. Writers, creatives, artists, musicians, etc. Nights here are an unforgettable adventure.
With the six narrow alleys, each with a distinct vibe, the best thing to do at Golden Gai, I would say, is wandering. It’s so fun to experience the alleys covered in art, prints, and colours. A vibe similar to Omoide Yokocho (Piss Alley), a.k.a Memory Lane, another “non-touristy” tourist destination of Shinjuku, to taste Tokyo’s one of the best culinary experiences. Personally, I love the combination of these two alleys. When I was in Tokyo, I had my best drink and dine experience in these two places.
Now, how to get to Golden Gai?
For first-timers in Shinjuku, it might be overwhelming to navigate the streets of the city. But take it from me, it’s easier than solving a jumbo jigsaw puzzle. First, reach Shinjuku Station. You can reach the station via train or subway easily. If you have the JR Pass, take advantage and get on any JR Line train – Chuo, Yamanote, Narita, Saikyo, etc.
In case you’re travelling by the subway, from Shinjuku-Sanchome Station, take the E2 Exit. From there, walk towards the east. Then, from the exits, it takes about a good 10 minutes to reach the neon-lit alley packed with small bars and eateries.
What is the best time to visit Golden Gai?
The best time to visit Golden Gai is between 8 pm and 9 pm. Too early, you won’t feel the rustic, unpolished, and post-war charm of this alley. Too late, the alley is brimming with locals and tourists. Hard enough to find yourself a sweet spot in one of the bars and eateries to squeeze in. I would say just visit the place right an hour or two before you call it a night! Unless you have plans to stay until the wee hours.
Where to go in Golden Gai: Best Bars in Shinjuku Golden Gai
Honestly, there are over 200 bars to choose from. But as a first-timer in Golden Gai, I don’t want to overload you with information. While you still can act on impulse and get inside the one that attracts you the most, especially the ones in English menus, but just to take the weight off your shoulders, here are my three top picks:
1. Albatross Golden Gai
If there’s one bar where you can expect to meet people from all over the world, Albatross G is the place. With a jaw-dropping interior, it feels straight out of a Harry Potter movie – the gothic ambience, mirrors, dim lights, and the disco ball show exactly what Golden Gai is all about – intimate settings. There are two floors and a rooftop.
Although the place is tiny, it doesn’t feel like that. But mind you, this could be the end of your bar-hopping adventure because this bar is just too good. The way they welcome their guests and keep them hooked with conversations is commendable. They charge 500 yen for a seat, like most places. Do try their house-infused spirits.
2. Deathmatch in Hell
Fan of horror movies? Metalhead? If you did a nod, place this bar on the top of your Golden Gai itinerary. Even if you didn’t, I can still bet you’ll have the time of your life here. The interior is so funky and cool. You’ll find skeletons, guitars, skulls, and a small screen showing horror movies as well as heavy metal on the stereo.
Best part? All drinks are available at 666 yen, which, if we compare, is pretty affordable. Beer, Japanese whiskey, sake, plum wine. The friendly owner and barman make sure you eventually settle in here after doing a little pub crawl in the Golden Gai. All I can say is do not pass on this one when in Golden Gai.
3. Ace’s Bar
Another ideal bar for the first-timer in Golden Gai, Ace’s Bar is a place of comfort and chill. No seat charge, English-speaking staff, good taste of music, fantastic hosts – Tsuyoshi and Chad. Plus, be ready for loads of conversations about Japan and beyond.
The intimate setting screams. The owner is also a great chef. If you happen to be in Golden Gai midday, try the carbonara here. You’ll be pleasantly surprised by how good it is. And you’ll definitely be coming back when you visit Tokyo again.
Where to go in Golden Gai: Best Food in Shinjuku Golden Gai
Although Golden Gai is more of a drinking place based on my experiences, there are still a few places where you can grab a bite. Nagi, a popular ramen spot in Golden Gai. You can also head to Bistro Pavo for Italian dishes like risotto and homemade pasta. Other than that, Albatross G also serves some well-paired dishes to satiate the little monster in your tummy. In case you are extremely hungry, I would say head to the more food-focused alley, Piss Alley.
How safe is Shinjuku Golden Gai at night for solo female travellers?
Golden Gai in Shinjuku during the night is considered mostly safe. But it’s best to keep in mind the basic safety precautions. And when in Golden Gai, follow their rules. Make sure you don’t overdo the photographs, as the place is tiny and in Japan, everyone expects you to respect their privacy and not be on their face.
Apart from that, drink and interact responsibly. Don’t create a scene or make anyone uncomfortable. Plus, don’t fall for touts. Be mindful of your belongings. And that’s it. Above all, be prepared to enjoy the best nightlife in Tokyo. In case you don’t feel confident to navigate Shinjuku Golden Gai on your own, opt for tours (but honestly, you don’t need them).
By the way, similar to Golden Gai, there’s Willow Alley in the neighbourhood as well – a lot less crowded and a great non-touristy alternative to experience nightlife on your solo trip to Japan.
FAQs
- Is Golden Gai busy every night?
Golden Gai stays comparatively busier from Thursdays to Saturdays. For obvious reasons, the weekend! If you want to experience Golden Gai in full swing, go on any of these nights, preferably Thursday, I would suggest. But be prepared, the crowd can be intimidating for first-time visitors.
- What is the difference between Golden Gai and Omoide Yokocho (Memory Lane)?
Golden Gai is for drinks, and Omoide Yokocho, a.k.a Memory Lane, is for dinner. If you want to experience the best of drinks and dinner in the backstreets of Tokyo, bookmark these two places!
- Do you need cash in Golden Gai?
Yes, while there are a few who accept cards, till today majority of the bars and eateries in Golden Gai only accept cash. So, it’s wise to carry some Yen for a smoother experience.


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